17TSE filter holder images

cutting the lens cap as shown. 


adapter rind epoxied to cut down lens cap

finished ring painted mat black

saw and epoxy used for the job

adapter mounted to 17TSE

Lee foundation kit mounted to adapter

Adapter with Lee hood.

13 Responses to 17TSE filter holder images

  1. Rick Knepper says:

    Hi Ben. It’s amazing how many people around the world must have looked at the lens cap and instantly thought it could be modified. You and I discussed this possibility in April 2011 and I immediately purchased a lens cap and took the first section of it apart. When the release button and spring fell to the tabeltop, I put it back together and my next thought was to take the entire cap intact to a machine shop and have them slice it. The only question was: how much of a cut. it’s been sitting on my desk like so many other projects including post processing images past photo trips.

    I’ve disassembled the cap again but this time down to the second section, the ring which has to be sliced in two. My question for you regards the position of the cut on the ring. In your picture, the inner ring looks flush to the outside ring. In the German article, it doesn’t appear flush but I can’t be sure. On the ring to be cut, there is a thin lip running the entire diameter of the unsliced ring. The depth of the lip is greater on the outside of the lip as opposed to the inside of the lip due to the fact that the outer section of the ring has a smaller diameter than the inner section, the section that will be retained. If one cuts on the outside of this lip, it does not appear the section which will ultimately become the inner ring of the modified device would be flush to the outside ring once it is reassembled as it appears in the German article. If one cuts on the inside of the lip, the two pieces look as though they would be flsuh or pretty close to being flush.

    Do you recall this lip I speak of and if so, on what side of the lip did you cut?

    What tool(s) did you use (I have to be led like a child)?

    Regarding the 77mm filter ring, what tool was used on this? Are we talking slicing, cutting or grinding?

    • begbert says:

      Hi Rick. I seem to recall a lip, not sure, it is buried under epoxy now. But I cut the inner ring flush with the outer ring. In fact I used that as a guide. I just put tape on it to protect it. When the saw started to remove tape I backed off.

      I used the saw in the picture. A standard fine tooth hack saw blade in a holder that you can get at Lowes or Homebase. A jewelers saw would also work. I used the same saw to cut the inner ring of the 77MM adaptor ring. I hand held everything while cutting. That kept me slow and steady. But I did a lot of hand work as an engineer.

      No worry on overcutting the inner ring, just don’t get very deep into the outer ring. Some folks like Fred Miranda had the ring fall out after cutting. I think it probably has lock tite and it depends on how well it sealed.

  2. Rick Knepper says:

    Hi Ben what is the reason the WA 82mm Lee adapter ring wouldn’t work? I have the 77 & 82 WA versions and I do not use the 82mm much.

    • begbert says:

      All of the WA adaptors work. The WA adaptors have the inner ring which can be removed. I believe the outer ring is the same for all of them so once the inner is removed you have the same part.

      I used the 77 because I had it and no longer needed it.

  3. begbert says:

    By the way, I believe the new 24-70 f2.8 mk2 is 82mm

  4. Rick Knepper says:

    Hey Ben sorry about the delay in responding. Glad you mentioned the 24-70 II.

    Did you notice that both adapter rings are actually two piece? The inner ring is soldered to the outer ring. I had my 67mm come apart as the result of a collision is how I know. I had to use an epoxy like the one you show above to repair it. I wonder if there is a clever way to loosen it. I was thinking of holding the ring over a flame from my gas stove but I am concerned about the piece I would eventually glue to the lens cap warping.

    • begbert says:

      Did not see any solder on mine. It might have had loktite, But as soon as I started wiggling it fell out. Some folks report it fell out as soon as the cut was finished.

      These are aluminum, can’t solder aluminum. Now if it were brass solder is possible, maybe the older ones were brass. I would avoid heating it. You will know its aluminum as soon as you start cutting.

      I would just cut it and then wiggle it loose.

  5. Rick Knepper says:

    Thanks. I’m heading over to Lowes or Home Depot later this morning to buy the right tools. I’ve decided on using the 82mm since it looks like I won’t be in possession of the 24-70 II in time for the ending of this photo season and the 16-35L (82mm) gets less work since I bought the 14-24G and I use the 77mm for multiple other lenses. All of the stores are currently on back-order for the 77mm and 82mm WA adapter so a replacement for whichever one I decide on is well off in the future. The one big negative for users about using Lee is their poor inventory supply.

  6. begbert says:

    good luck and let me know if you have any questions.

  7. Rick Knepper says:

    I got ‘er done. Took a bit of sanding to get the edges flush since I can’t cut a straight if my life depended on it. It’s a little tight when screwing it onto the lens but that’s a good thing probably. I didn’t have time this weekend to take any serious shots but the filter slides in just beyond the the front of the lens. And, the hood of my P105 actually can be pulled out some before vignetting occurs.

  8. begbert says:

    Great to hear. I have posted a whole bunch of images showing how far I can shift before vignetting with the Lee foundation kit. I also got the Lee 4×4 polarizer and did some testing with that. You can actually use the polarizer pretty well in some angles to the sun.

    The amount of shift will depend on how close you cut it. Mine is probably a little bit thick. I also took my Lee Foundation kit to one slot.

    My hood still works ok, but the ring for the polarizer is the thing that vignettes first. If you want max shift, you need the Foundation kit, or remove the 10%mm mount on the hood.

  9. Roger says:

    Hi, Ben and Rick,

    Is there any vignette on the TS-E 17 with your custom filter holder? I still think Wonderpana 145 is a better option, in term of the cost and the work involved to make a DIY filter holder for this TS lens. Any comments will be appreciated. Thanks,


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>

Powered by sweet Captcha