You may have seen my previous holder which was made from a piece of PVC pipe that slipped over the lens. It worked pretty good other than messing up the focus sometimes because it was attached to the focus ring. But it was always in the bottom of my camera bag and the jostling broke the epoxy joint. I discovered this just when I really needed an ND grad. In fact, I gave up shooting that scene with the 17 and went to a 24TSE shot with the grad and just did some stitching.
This time I used a spare lens cap modified as is well documented at FMiranda. At this link
I am including a few images on another page to help clarify what was unclear to me in the German translation.
- The inner piece needs to be cut but no dimensions are given. I judged that cutting the inner ring flush with the outer ring joint is correct. I left them attached as I cut so I could use it as a saw guide. I protected the outer ring with tape as I cut. I was able to get the inner ring within .010 of the outer ring using the saw shown.
- A bit of sanding cleaned it up, but not too smooth, want a rough surface for the epoxy.
- I used a heavy duty epoxy this time.
- I used a Lee 77 WA adaptor as shown. I cut out the inner ring as seen in the photos. The inner ring is a separate part and causes vignetting. It did not pop out with two cuts. I put the ring on dry ice and then dropped it in a pan of boiling water. Still did not come out. I made a third cut (see the overcut in my picture). I used a needle nose pliers to remove the small segment and then when I wiggled on the remaining segments, they popped out easy.
- I mixed up my epoxy and applied it to the lens cap and the metal adaptor ring and centered it as carefully as possible. The epoxy takes overnight to cure.
- My old holder was closer to the lens and allowed a bit more tilt and shift, but was more off center. The difference was not enough to matter to me and now there will be no more ruining the focus when I touch the adaptor, a big bonus.
- Over a year of experience with my old device and the lens taught me that I seldom want a CPL at 17mm, but when I do use the 105mm CPL on the Lee Hood, it vignettes badly without tilt or shift. Edit, removing one slot allows some shift with the Lee 4×4 linear polarizer.
- I got a standard Lee foundation kit and a Lee 4×4 glass polarizer. The first one arrived from B&H broken, the second one will be handled with extreme care. I use the Lee foundation kit holder with
2 slots.Changed to 1 slot.
- The 4×4 polarizer can be used in the foundation kit rotated at 45 degrees without vignetting,
but any shift will cause vignetting unless the polarizer is vertical. Not often that works. So the polarizer is mostly for unshifted shots and works great without vignetting.See my write up on using the Lee 4×4.
- The hood is often really important with the 17TSE which picks up the sun from a wide area but can only be used with minimum shift and no CPL.
- The main reason for this device is to be able to use an ND grad.
- Shift when using a filter is next in importance and usually shifted down. I seldom use tilt and almost never more than 1 degree. By the way, if you are shifted down the tilt helps with vignetting.
- Some of my pictures are before clean up but I have added some after clean up and flat black paint. I don’t do long exposures other than in dead dark, so I don’t have an issue with stray light. But I do want to avoid flare.
Here is a summary:
- With a 105mm B&W cpl attached in the Lee hood version it always vignettes.
- With the CPL removed you can shift down 4 clicks before you see some vignette at the bottom (Hood version).
- Add 1 degree of tilt and the vignette is cleaned up a bit (Hood version).
- Without shift, you can tilt a bit more, far more than I have ever needed. If you shifted up and tilted down, you would get more vignette, but this is a strange combination for me (Hood version).
- With the Lee foundation kit,
I can use the Lee 4×4 linear polarizer and another filter or any two filters that fit the holder.
- Further testing revealed that there was vignetting with the 4×4 when rotated 45 degrees. I removed one slot and improved it. I plan a full test for shift movements and will post it in the next week or so. I also plan to test the effect of the 4×4 polarizer on sky gradations when used on a 17mm lens.
Here is a link to the polarizer test